Fashion retail space and luxury platform, Flying Solo hosted designer showcases for select audiences this past NYFW. The runway shows took place at Canoe Studios, located in the Starrett Lehigh Building and home to major lifestyle brands such as Ralph Lauren, Club Monaco, Tommy Hilfiger and Martha Stewart.
This year, there was an exceptional display of modern experimental takes on classic attire.
Another Archive showed audiences their collection of delicate, softly feminine attire as a ballet inspired performance. Outfits contained layered translucent fabrics, forming cloud-like shapes with their skirts and puffer-ed materials. Other outfits appealed to a colder temperature with quilted dresses and knitted hats.
The latter portion revealed almost alien-like combinations of the previous pieces with hoods of puffer jacket material, thickly weaved shorts and a translucent sleeve shirt. The ballet became more as the mixing of materials was simultaneously beautifully intriguing yet contained a sense of uncanny evolution.
The sweaters gained bulbous textures. Head coverings were of heavy materials while the skirts were kept shimmery and sheer. Overall there was a distinctly overarching theme of a celestial, dreamy aesthetic.
Ancient Studios’ showcase contained futuristic, edgy looks with a highlight of neon green punching through the grey. Metal becomes a “meshy” material that is laid against the skin – a complete contrast to the sheer fabrics and quilted comfort of the previous showcase. A delightful cyber-vibe, pervaded through the collection echoing the 90s industrial club-wear.
The alternation of polarizing sets was seen further in the Flying Solo collections as the expertly tailored apparel from Arohi’s showcase was followed by the organic up-cycled pieces from Ventana.
Arohi’s vision drew the eyes from pointed shoulders, through open shirts framing sautoir necklaces from Wildwood Oyster Co., all the way down to slightly flared cuffs and pant hems. The models echoed a future take of feminine excellence adorned with jewelry from Lesotho while swinging matching wristlets from Alf the Label.
Contrasting this was Ventana’s up-cycled collection that acted as the canvas for fine art patterning. Each piece felt like looking at an oil painter test out the emotion of textures. The showcase contained patchwork trench coats of multi-jean fabrics and dresses that became a collage of mesh and chiffon. Perhaps their most standout piece was a matching set of meticulously gathered sheer white fabric. With elongated sleeves and a hint of decadence, the piece felt otherworldly while maintaining its elegance.
The collection carried its theme of the organic through inorganic means in its selection of accessories as well. A bag from Erente was fervently dressed with chains all the way up to its straps. The “Rocker” aesthetic paired particularly well with the black and silver ring from Opal Wearables.
Approach Expression centered their showcase around transforming denim, pushing it’s form just a bit past the edges. Oversized denim blazers featured elongated sleeves. Damaged denim was used on skirts, dresses and jackets. Denim pants was boldly laced from waist to toe and was paired with an avant-garde ruched top.
If you were paying close enough attention you would also see the glimmers of earrings from Maralkunst pass by that Approach Expression paired with their ruffled dresses.
Talaya Jessie’s showcase focused on women’s business wear, focusing on lighter colors and block-like designs. Labeled their “Full Bloom Collection”, the styles set for SS 2024 featured beautifully tailored blazers with oversized lapels and a multi-coloured block design applied to split-pattern trousers and a white pantsuit. The collection overall felt modern, bold and playful with a finished pairing of clutches from Winston Leather.
Lia’nna brought architectural grace to evening wear in her “Light” collection. The dresses fittingly had a reflective metallic fabric and took on bold design choices such as pleated sleeves, backless cutouts, and asymmetrical one-shoulder dresses.
Moving from fabric that mimicked light, the audience was now brought into space. Kalaqtic By Kaeden’s showcase was all about alienetic prestige. Big shoulders, bold trench coats, and hoodies with aluminium-like trimmings. Circular lines traced along the apparel in a suggestively modern way. Perhaps the most memorable aspect was the bandeaus with metal appliques that looked like bullet belts.
Metal met stone as Sienna Iman’s collection for SS 2024 veered towards earth-toned grays, blacks, and whites.The showcase featured a selection of jackets with extended shoulder lines, puffer vests with sheer hoodies, and sheer dresses and skirts that moved like water as the models walked along the runway. The subtle thoughtfulness seen through the cinched drawstrings on skirts, the understated bracelets from 24/7 Anonym, and the extended straps elevating a textured bodycon, is what makes this collection become modern wearable sophistication.
However, not all modern takes need to be subtle.
LFJ’s “Under Sea” collection was a party underwater, using a number of textures and fabrics to imitate the fantastical variety of sea life. Feather trimmings on sheer robes appeared like sea anemones and pleated fabric used in several pieces mimicked fish fins and delicate plant-life. A tube head cowl was a part of the couture choice accessories adding outer space aspect to the underwater theme. On a more grounded level, additional accessories were through shoes from Nafari Moda and jewelry from 24/7 Anonym.
Accessories on the Flying Solo runway shined alongside the apparel collections. Models displayed glamourous industrial gold earrings and necklaces by Iza By Silvia D’Avila and mosaic bags from Felipa Bags Philippines.
Bohaze Jewelry, Slime Goggles and Exit 85 combined forces to bring a showcase of modern, edgy streetwear inspired by the working class. The “Working America” collection by Exit 85 focused on a variety of outerwear including racer, bomber, and mechanic jackets. Along with printed jeans, chic eyewear from Slime Goggles and bold chain necklaces and silver rings from Bohaze, the collection overall gave elevated ruggedness.
The theme of outerwear continued in Cover’s showcase. The Ukrainian brand delivered sharp women’s suits with an 80’s masculine touch. Striking silhouettes and small touches such as slitted cutouts created a powerful effect for viewers. This modern take on feminist attire reconstructs previous generations with new applications and flips the script on what powerful women can wear.
LD-13’s “Wardrobe Unbuttoned” took satin jackets and hyper-extended the shoulders, creating a visceral effect recognizable from across the room. The shoulders almost acted like the protective horns of an otherworldly creature guarding the gates of the wearer.
All photos are by Sophia Calderone
