For those with oily pores – the kind of skin that exudes a greasy film no matter the context – summer skin care may pose a conundrum. The instinct to cleanse and exfoliate too harshly and frequently can wreak as much havoc on problem areas and the skin barrier as not properly cleansing. The key to balanced skin for the sebum-afflicted, anytime of the year, is thorough cleansing and toning with targeted actives to remove grime, buildup, and dead skin, while delivering pore-clearing, acne-killing compounds. Given the challenges of record-level heat and humidity, savvy skin care calls for increased reliance on the ingredients proven to tackle oil spills in tandem with appropriate levels/types of hydration to prevent triggering more sebum output.
CLEANSERS
As cleansing is king, we can never have too many effective options to prepare a clean slate for a results-based skincare regimen. In addition to the tried and true Erno Lazlo reviewed in “Face Wash Who … Facial Cleansing Bars Are So Hot Right Now,” a pore-purifying botanical cleanser is essential for day and night. Flora and Noor’s sulfate-free, halal-approved Hydration Station Aloe + Green Tea Cleanser combines salicylic acid and green tea to unclog pores, plus aloe and squalene to maintain moisture. It foams immediately to thoroughly remove the grime and gunk of pollution, sunscreen, and makeup.
If an ultra-deep, exfoliating cleanse is what’s called for, Biophora’s Bioactive Cleanser delivers a potent, sulfate-free glycolic degreaser. With green tea extracts, its pH balanced foam purifies while maintaining the skin’s acid mantle.
It’s best followed by the Bioactive Solution, a glycolic-based toner packed with eucalyptus oil, vitamin c, salicylic acid, kojic acid, antioxidants, antifungals, antimicrobials, and skin lighteners to treat a host of skin concerns that results from excess sebum, clogged pores, and the presence of the p acne – the bacteria that causes breakouts. For maximum pore-purifying and sebum-controlling prep, complete Biophora’s skin care trio with the ultra-exfoliating and brightening Bioactive Gel.
In the case of oil-clogged pores prone to the severe imbalance that leads to acne, cleansers rich in probiotics work wonders to reset the skin microbiome and battle ickies. Norie’s Clean Beauty award-winning Kimchii Cleanser, inspired by the ultra trendy culinary probiotic source, sources L. Kimchi bacteria with salicylic acid and apple extract for an antimicrobial, skin-clearing wash that brightens and softens the most troubled complexions without irritation.
EXFOLIANTS & TONERS
On self care nights when total purification is in order, Melumé’s Pro Strength Multi-Acid Micro Peel³ , a pH balanced, waterless, and biomimetic scrub mask is a professional microdermabrasion treatment in a tube. This holy grail of skin refining offers both next-level physical and chemical exfoliation in 8 minutes.
Given heft with round, non-abrasive Micro Polishing Bamboo Particles in a base of Glycolic, Lactic, and Salicylic acids, as well as Papaya enzymes, this magical scrub is a bonanza of dead-skin blasting activity. When massaging and rinsing off, the dead skin and sebum removal is satisfying in a half-cringe, half pimple-popping-video-addict way.
For an ultra targeted-pore solution, Ana K, a female-founded brand, by an aesthetician no less, harnesses one of the most effective sebum clearing actives for oily skin – salicylic acid. Blemish Be Gone Toner combines the popular BHA with witch hazel, grapefruit peel, and sage oils to keep sebum production at bay, plus allantoin to prevent over drying and irritation.
For the more acne-prone and congested skin types, the Sulphur & Salicylic Toner also contains BHA with equally potent, acne-killers and pore purifiers sulfur and azelaic acid. Unlike other sulfur-based formulations, there’s no eggy smell whatsoever. The addition of hibiscus flower, lavender, and green tea extracts imparts a floral fragrance that will make toning the highpoint of a night-time cleansing routine.
MASKS
If ever masking were required, it’s during summer. For the oily-skinned, the pores demand it, at least once a week. For the ultimate sebum-zapping, deep cleansing treatment, Flora & Noor combines nature’s powerhouse anti-inflammatory greens spirulina, and kelp with pore-refining kaolin clay in the Earth & Ocean Acne Fighting Mask. After applying it in a uniform medium layer with a brush, rinse off with a warm, moist cloth for refreshed pores. Screw the cap on tightly to keep every ounce, as this will wind up in the empties bin in no time.
If masking twice a week, alternating with Borghese’s Advanced Fango Active Purifying Mud Mask supplies a pore-care experience reminiscent of European spas. The beloved mineral-rich mask sourced from Tuscany is famed for a reason. The base of purifying bentonite clay, free of the ickies – mineral oil, parabens, talc, sodium lauryl sulfate – is bolstered with almond oil, ginseng, and hyaluronic acid. This mud mask is equally recommended for the age-disrupting and elasticity boosting nourishment one would expect from the trailblazing princess who founded Borghese in the 1950s.
SERUMS & TREATMENTS
The consensus is in on another holy grail ingredient for all skin types – niacinamide. It’s super beneficial for oily skin but only at the right concentration. To target pores for sebum-control, the vitamin B derivative is most effective at 10% concentration as in Melumé’s Water-Free Niacinamide Galactomyces Serum. Combined with tranexamic Acid, an ultra effective dark spot fader and 80% Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, the ingredient in most anti-aging, brightening essences, and ultra soothing and hydrating snow mushroom acid, it’s one of the best, multi-purpose serums for skin types dealing with oiliness, hyperpigmentation, and textural irregularities.
For a more intense age-disrupting, skin renewal that’s friendly to the oily-skinned, Maskad’s skin care protocol targets pores, texture, pigmentation and age-disrupting care that’s not too heavy or potentially pore-clogging.
The sister Maskad Peptide Bomb Anti-Aging and Hydrating Serums can be layered or taken to the next-level with a few passes of the Maskad Derma Roller to help the expertly-formulated cocktail of 14 peptides, 3 growth factors, antioxidants, and hyaluronic acid penetrate into the skin for brightening and tightening.
When time is not of the essence, the proprietary Hydrogel Infusion Face Mask delivers maximum skin pampering without the worry of congestion. Unlike other sheet masks, this 2-piece system works with the serums – a few drops can be applied to the hydrogel layer then left on the face for the deepest absorption of Maskad’s skin-beautifying serums.
MOISTURIZER
One of the most difficult products to curate for a summer oily skin regimen is moisturizer. Most are too creamy and rich, even oil-free lotions, for an active t-zone, especially under makeup. Alchimie Forever’s Kantic® Light Clarifying Cream is perfectly lightweight and sebum-balancing. Like all products in the Kantic line, the mixture of Alpine botanicals – rosemary, European blueberries, and grape seeds – provides mega antioxidants carnosic acid, anthocyanidins, catechin, quercetin, and resveratrol that triple as a dose of anti-aging and brightening care in addition to moisture.
For a lighter, emulsion-type hydration, Jordan Samuel Skin recently launched Matinee Gel Moisturizer is as uniquely textured as it is hydrating. The blend of prickly pear, pomegranate, and evening primrose oils with green tea and bilberry extracts yields a hydro-lipid gel moisturizer that instantly absorbs into the skin as quickly as jeujed up aloe for a long-lasting humectant effect. Both moisturizers work wonders on hot days, especially when refrigerated.
SUNSCREEN
The challenge of finding oily skin-appropriate sunscreen is even trickier than moisturizer, with formulations that rely on zinc oxide for protection at the top of the list. Kinship’s Self Reflect Probiotic Moisturizing Sunscreen Zinc Oxide SPF 32, with finely milled zinc that won’t leave a white cast, its proprietary prebiotic, and turmeric, benefits all skin types while serving as a primer that’s neither sticky, nor greasy.
As for chemical sunscreens, Hello Sunday’s high-performing Everyday One SPF 50 Face Sunscreen Moisturizer with Hyaluronic Acid is multi-beneficial for many skin types. Weightless, and friendly for all complexions, with the addition of hyaluronic acid and Moringa, it doubles as a hydrator – allowing the oily-skinned to skip moisturizer. Equally lightweight and without a white cast or a film is Shimmer One SPF 45 Mineral Glow Stick. It’s a perfect highlighter for face and body on minimal makeup days, or the base for a radiant makeup look that’s typically elusive for active t-zones.
