Among the many magical things Ancient Egypt gave to the world, the Pyramids, Cleopatra, and mummies, the practice that all civilizations have tried to copy ever since is alchemy. It’s based on the belief that a certain mix of substances when blended just right can provide everlasting life and beauty. For centuries, the tradition of mixing botanicals in pursuit of immortality and a wrinkle-free complexion has been kept alive in Switzerland, where nature’s bounty of herbs grows wild in the bright sunlight and high altitude of the Alps. It’s with this tradition of sourcing botanicals through modern extraction methods that Alchimie Forever, a pioneering clean beauty brand, honors its namesake. It may not give you everlasting life, but it’ll help with great skin which is the next best thing.
Founded in Geneva by Dr. Luigi Polla, a dermatologist who specialized in treating children born with port wine stains, Alchimie Forever is now helmed by his daughter Ada Polla. When the father-daughter discovered the signature herbal treatmen mask for his patients was also a dynamo facial brightener, the brand officially launched with the debut of the Kantic® Brightening Moisture Mask. The creamy, silicone-free treatment mask, with the medical research to back up its brightening claims, combines oats to moisturize, wild pansies to help heal and minimize inflammation, and blueberry extract to combat redness. The 2023 Dirty Thinkers’ Choice Award-winning light pink, pudding-like emulsion also contains resveratrol, the powerhouse anti-oxidant from grapes that gives this beauty warrior another reason to love a good Malbec.
Left on for 15 min, the mask dries down with a rose-gold sheen that immediately imparts a beautiful brightening and luminosity when rinsed off. Jam-packed with actives, it doubles as a nourishing hydrating mask too. For mega results, it can be used overnight on cleansed skin.
The Kantic formulation is also used in several moisturizers, including the Kantic® Light Clarifying Cream for oily skin, the Kantic+® Nourishing Cream, for dehydrated, mature, menopausal skin, and Kantic® Calming Cream for reactive and post-procedural skin. The botanical focus of the brand extends to a full list of cleansers, scrubs, serums, a peel, eye and body care. Grapefruit, aloe, and cucumber extracts in the Purifying Gel Cleanser – my favorite morning staple – dissolve sebum and impurities without stripping. The hydroquinone-free Pigment Perfecting Serum, blended from hyaluronic acid, alpha-arbutin, vitamin C, hop and citrus extracts, and green tea, works to fade discoloration. While doubling as a plumping, anti-aging serum, it’s the perfect accompaniment to the Kantic® Brightening Moisture Mask and sold with their Advanced Retinol Serum in the Anti-Aging Super Heroes duo. In just a few weeks, the mask and serum have made a huge difference in my post-pimple pigmentation.
For more serious anti-aging action, the Firming Gel For Neck And Bust combines green tea and rosemary for a clinically proven tightening effect and an uplifting herbaceous zing. To further pay off the beneficial properties of green tea and rosemary, turmeric and tomato are added in the Skin Repair Gel. recommended for men post-shave soothing and oil control.
The brand’s recent reformulations for the highest clean beauty standards – paraben-free, gluten-free, cruelty-free and vegan – and addition of new products are inspired by Ada Polla’s own skincare journey while remaining true to her father’s mission of clinical results from dermatologist-tested botanical extracts. I chatted with the CEO at length about being a female entrepreneur in the beautysphere.
Q&A
1. There’s no official designation for wellness or clean beauty. How do you define them personally and as an entrepreneur? (Is there an official designation for medical grade skincare?)
The majority of the words used in the skin care industry are not formally defined, so they mean different things to different people and different brands. This is true for “clean,” “sustainable,” “clinical,” “medical grade,” “cosmeceutical,” and more. Our goal is to be fully transparent in our communication and with our community. As such, we spend a lot of time defining the terms we use (“clean” and “clinical” mostly). For example, to us “clean” does not mean 100% natural (clean chemicals are wonderful!), and also involves our packaging (transitioning to sugarcane plastic, using FSC-certified paper for example) and manufacturing practices.
2. What was your eureka moment, when you knew deep-down that it was the time in your life, and in the market, to start your own brand and make your own products?
I had the privilege of working with my father, Switzerland’s leading dermatologist Dr. Luigi L. Polla, when he was pioneering the use of lasers in dermatology. The first application of lasers was the treatment of Port Wine Stains and Hemangiomas (big, red, debilitating birth marks) in infants and children. During this time, I witnessed the change in how his patients’ self-confidence and happiness increased as their birthmarks were treated. This was my Eureka moment – realizing that my father, by treating skin, was making such a difference in his patients’ life, helping them become the best version of themselves. I love this about our industry! We say “Looking Good, Means Feeling Good, Means Doing Good!”
3. Do you have formal business training, such as an MBA, or a similar degree in chemistry? Or is your professional background mostly in the beautysphere?
I have an undergraduate degree from Harvard University, and a MBA degree from Georgetown University. During my MBA, I took all of the family business and entrepreneurship classes I could! Also, I worked in my father’s dermatology practice from 10 to 17 years old, and that certainly contributed to my “education on the beautysphere!”.
4. Is sustainability compatible with ROI and business growth?
YES! Sustainability is something that our community and customers look for. Implementing sustainable practices in every possible aspect of our business is not only good for the planet, but good for sales.
5. What product in your line are you most proud of? Describe the genesis of the product.
I love and am proud of all of our products of course I can say that right now, I cannot live without our Advanced Retinol Serum. The genesis of this product was actually my 40 th birthday. I started seeing more fine lines, and a rougher texture in my own skin, and asked my father what I should do about this. He recommended I start using retinol, which is the gold standard ingredient for the treatment of aging skin. At that time, we didn’t offer a retinol product… but that changed that year!
6. It’s hard to believe that there are still skeptics out there about the benefits of a dedicated skin care regimen, especially to slow down the aging process and treat skin problems. How do you address that skepticism?
I was just this past week at a social event chatting with the mother of teenagers, who was explaining to me that she did not believe in recommending her daughters wash their face… This indeed still happens, and I always remind myself that part of my job, part of the beauty industry’s job, is to educate, and sometimes re-educate the customer. Not all of us have the privilege of growing up with a dermatologist father. I try to liken skin care to oral care and find that this is helpful for most in terms of reframing the conversation. Not brushing your teeth at home is not something any mother would recommend to her children. Most of us also would never bypass our bi-annual dentist appointments and cleanings… In the same vein, we should all get regular facials. Lastly, I am always preaching about the power of prevention and the importance of starting healthy skin care habits (including good cleansing, not with body soap!) in your teens.
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Read Part 1 in the “Female Founders Q&A” series with the Glow Bar CEO HERE.
Read Part 2 in the “Female Founders Q&A” series with the Uzima CEO HERE.
Read Part 3 in the “Female Founders Q&A” series with the Kinship CEO HERE.
Read Part 4 in the “Female Founders Q&A” series with the Raw Sugar Living CEO HERE.
Read Part 6 in the “Female Founders Q&A” series with the Kindness Powered Skincare CEO Here.
