Hidden behind the revolving door of the Sofitel Hotel in midtown Manhattan is a French oasis called Gaby Brasserie — it’s classic, nostalgic and modern all at the same time, with a lively yet chill ambiance that Édith Piaf, Renaud and Dua Lipa could appreciate. I reviewed this hotel and restaurant many years ago and I am excited to revisit it and see how things have changed over the years. Here is what you need to know.
Times have changed. Most everyone would agree. However, the traditions at this establishment carry on like its namesake Gaby, the grande dame. Old-world charm, and a touch of the current day vibe keep the loyal patrons rushing back while luring today’s generation of hungry visitors. The clientele is predominantly from Europe, Latin America and Asia.
An Art-Deco theme greets guests from the moment they enter the hotel lobby. Marble flooring, a roaming staircase accents a bouquet of fresh flowers at the base set the stage, while the staff extends warm welcomes in both French and English. This elegant ambiance leads everyone from the front desk to the renowned Gaby Brasserie.
This brasserie is a testament to the French word, appétit, where culinary delights simmer to perfection. It’s a quintessential New York experience, a vibrant fusion of cultures reflected in the restaurants red, white and bleu spirit.
Gone are the days of the somber piano players and singing chanteuses, but the cuisine inspired by Julia Child, Jacques Pépin and Galloping Gourmet (Le Gourmet Farfelu) remain. The era of escargot and beef bourguignon has given way to a Sofitel Hamburger, various salads (Including watermelon) and vegetarian flatbreads, but not completely. The shift in cultural tastes and dietary restrictions, plus finicky eaters, who fib about food allergies, doesn’t mean dining out is dead. In fact, it’s more exciting than ever. Whether you are on a date, celebrating a special occasion or craving a memorable meal, this is where you need to be. My experience was further enhanced as I visited on July 14th — the anniversary of Bastille Day.
Cocktail Hour: Gaby Brasserie boasts several signature cocktails, including the Gaby Midtown Cosmo. This refreshing beverage features Pamplemousse Vodka, Cointreau, cranberry juice, and a freshly squeezed lime, with a surprising addition of hibiscus. It’s clearly a crowd-pleaser, earning high praise from nearby Broadway theater performers and workers.
One of the best parts of their cocktail hour is watching the bartender take particular care with each order. From smoky whiskey drinks to the multi-layers involved in each boozy creation, the barman (David) can juggle and create all of them with precision — he shakes, rattles and rolls. A prime example is the Cherry Wood Smoked Old Fashioned, a masterful blend of Old Forester Bourbon, B&B and Turkish Tobacco Bitters, smoked in front of the guest for an aromatic and smooth finish. It’s served with one single, colossal ice cube.
Starters: While many diners were tempted by the house signature soupe à l’oignion gratinée. On this steamy summer night in the city, I chose their Jumbo Lump Crab Cake, and I am very glad that I did. It lives up to the crustacean’s title — this cake is packed with a lot of succulent crab meat and a light breading that holds it all together. The portion is jumbo as the lump states and easily sharable — it’s perfectly seasoned with a pinch of this and pinch of that. I strongly recommend this dish with a firm claw.
In keeping with tradition, many French restaurants offer classic fare like Pommes Frites and Roasted Chicken. This establishment also features seasonal delights such as Branzino from New England and a Vegan Mushroom Flatbread. I wholeheartedly recommend one of their steaks. After all, humans, equipped with teeth from the outset, have been carnivores by nature.
According to French steak specialist Francis Marie, steak au poivre originated in the 19th century in the bistros of Normandy, where prominent aristocrats took their female companions for late night suppers, and where pepper’s purported aphrodisiac properties were tested. Gaby’s version of the dish is undeniably exceptional. Served with creamy mashed potatoes and tender asparagus, it combines a perfect balance of peppery heat and buttery richness, showcasing an exquisitely tender cut of filet mignon. In two words deliciously awesome!
The current dessert options include Vegan Chocolate Mouse with seasonal berries or a Lemon Tart with a buttery shortbread filled with lemon curd. I suggest the prior. The seasonal berries add a wow factor to the smooth and mouth-watering mousse — it’s like visiting chocolate heaven.
If you don’t have a sweet tooth and desire another dessert libation, try their Espresso Martini. It’s packed with more stimulation than a New York City marathon and over zealous taxi driver. The flavor will wake up your taste buds from the very first sip.
Beyond the quality of food and the social aspects, exceptional hospitality is paramount to a truly memorable dining experience. Gaby Brasserie excels in this area, gathering employees who demonstrate professionalism, kindness, and a genuine commitment to customer satisfaction. From the manager’s leadership to the busboy’s attentiveness, every team member contributes to creating a welcoming and enjoyable atmosphere. Special recognition goes to David, the talented bartender (I prefer the word “bartender” to “mixologist”); this man knows his ingredients, recipes, flavors and aromatic herbs. Kudos to the entire front-of-house and kitchen staff, including Aaron, Meti, and Brian, their exceptional service has inspired me to share my positive experience and eagerly anticipate my return visit.
Note: Gaby Brasserie is part of the New York Restaurant Week which runs from July 22 through August 18 — check out their website for a special prix-fixe menu and to make a reservation.
À bientôt = “See you soon!”
Gaby Brasserie at Sofitel Hotel
45 West 44th Street
NY 10036 New York
Tel: (+1) 212 782 3040
Gaby Brasserie
Photo Credits: P. K. Greenfield, Sofitel.
